Is a single-axis golf swing the best way to hit a ball? Fueled by the success of the Moe Norman, who popularized the single-axis approach and was widely known for power, consistency, and correctness at impact, the debate rages on. He introduced a concept called “Natural Golf” many years ago. It’s not likely to stop anytime soon.

Norman is among the best ballstrikers ever. Even the great Ben Hogan admired his swing. Hogan was once quoted as saying, “Moe is the only guy that I would walk across the street to watch hit balls.” Hogan was not alone. So what’s behind the debate? Let’s take a closer look at the single-axis swing.

While the single-axis swing isn’t something I talk about in my golf lessons and golf tips, it still intrigues. Taking away and returning a club on a single plane—not the two planes of the modern approach, simplifies the golf swing. At the very least, as I explain in golf instruction sessions when asked about it, it improves the most important part of the swing—impact.

Key Difference Between Swings
The key difference between the conventional golf swing and the single-axis swing is the relationship between address and impact. With the conventional swing, the player sets up with his arms and hands directly below the shoulders, forming two separate lines that create an angle between the arms and clubshaft.

With the single-axis swing, the address position aligns the club on the same plane as the impact plane. In other words, the single-axis swing starts the club on the same impact plane and stays there throughout. Thus, the golf swing is simplified. Solid ballstriking, which I emphasize in my golf lessons and golf tips, is facilitated.

Address:
With the conventional swing, the player takes a narrow stance with the lead arm on a different line than the clubshaft. The trail hand is on top of the club and the hands are behind the clubhead. With the single-axis swing, the hands are positioned in front of the clubhead with every club. This position forms a straight line—the same line that occurs at impact when the lead arm and clubshaft align. Moe Norman called it “the rod.”

Backswing
Since the conventional swing starts on a different plane at address, the player must hinge his or her wrists to get the club back on plane. The address position also creates a steeper shoulder plane. Also, the spine tilts forward a little, away from the original spine angle going into the downswing. Since the single-axis swing starts on the same plane, the player keeps the club on plane by maintaining the relationship between the lead arm and the lead shoulder established at address. The spine tilt remains the same as at address and the shoulder remains on plane.

Top of the Swing
The traditional swing forces a steeper, more vertical arm movement to the top of the backswing. The spine moves toward the target, in a reversed C position, and the right elbow (for right-handers) has been lifted and will need to drop down to get the club back on plane in the downswing. With the single-axis swing, there’s no need to drop the arms into the slot. They’re already there. The wrists are cocked and ready to deliver as much power as possible into the back of the ball.

Downswing
With the conventional swing the lower body rotates with the lead leg straightening and the back foot lifting to create room for the lifting of the clubhead into impact. The trail elbow is slightly behind the trail hip, which can “trap” the arm behind the body. With the single-axis swing, the head remains behind the ball, the trail foot is on the ground, and the player’s spine tilt maintained. The lead leg remains flexed and stable. Nor is there any need to move the body to make room for a steeper shaft.

Impact
The impact positions of both the conventional and single-axis swing are similar at impact, as they should be. The key difference is, as we have pointed out, how they arrived there—through multiple planes or on a single plane. What’s more, the single-axis swing produces minimal movement throughout the swing, compared to the traditional swing.

Release
The conventional swing requires a full release of the entire body, with excessive hip rotation and the need to lift the trail foot off the ground. Also, the forearms must cross to square the clubface. That’s unlike the single-axis swing, where the arms power past a flexed, yet posted lead leg and moves straight toward the target, like a pendulum.

That’s the single-axis swing in a nutshell. Many of the fundamentals of the single-axis swing can be seen in today’s Tour players, like Craig Perry, Tom Lehman, and Mike Weir, while Mark O’Meara is almost a carbon copy of Moe Norman in the release position.

So the debate rages on. The conventional swing has many proponents, but the single-axis swing also has its share of advocates. If you struggle with consistency, you may find it worth while to investigate, what is at the least, a simpler way of achieving a solid impact position. It certainly can’t hurt.

Jack Moorehouse is the author of the best-selling book “How To Break 80 And Shoot Like The Pros.” He is NOT a golf pro, rather a working man that has helped thousands of golfers from all seven continents lower their handicap immediately. He has a free weekly newsletter with the latest golf tips, golf lessons and golf instruction.

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How To Break 80 Newsletter

July 26, 2006

“The Web’s Most Popular Golf Improvement Newsletter”
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In this issue we’ll discuss…

1) Sinking Those Short Putts
2) Eliminating Slices and Pulls

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1) Sinking Those Short Putts
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Ever miss an easy two-footer? Who hasn’t? If you’re missing more than your share of short putts, it may be because you’re decelerating the putterhead before impact, causing you to hit the ball offline.

Acceleration is the increasing speed at which the clubhead moves through the ball. It’s important for all shots—even putts. The key to accelerating when putting is keeping your hands ahead of the ball, which prevents excessive wrist motion on the forwardswing and sends the ball rolling off line.

One technique for encouraging acceleration is the left-hand low grip (for right-handers). It forces you to accelerate through the stroke. The grip prevents the hands from releasing too much and helps keep the putterhead square to the target line, even after contact. But for those who like a traditional grip, here’s a drill that teaches acceleration.

Sand Wedge Drill
Find a hole on the practice green that let’s you to set up for a flat and straight putt. Place a sand wedge perpendicular to the line of the intended putt so that the face is down and the thinner part of the shaft is across the line of the putt. The shaft should lie just at the edge of the cup.

From a distance of three feet, putt the ball so that it hits the shaft, pops into the air and falls in the hole. If you decelerate the putterhead through the stroke, you’ll generate insufficient speed for overcoming the shaft in front of the hole. If you accelerate through the stroke, you create enough speed for the ball to hole the putt over the shaft.

Try this drill on breaking putts, if you feel adventuresome. Just make sure you set the shaft perpendicular to the break to ensure the ball pops into the cup.

After practicing the drill a few times, take it to the course. Visualize the wedge’s shaft in front of the hole. Visualizing fosters acceleration and focuses you on the process of making the putt, not on the outcome.

Make this drill part of your regular practice sessions. It encourages you to accelerate through the putting stroke and provides the confidence to make those short putts critical to good scoring.

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2) Eliminating Slices and Pulls
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Slices and pulls are two of the most common faults in golf. While different, they actually stem from the same flaw—swinging out-to-in. You can verify this flaw by checking your divots. If they point left of target, you’re swinging out-to-in, instead of in-to-out.

The deciding factor is the position of the clubface at impact. If it’s closed (or square), you’ll pull. If it’s open, you’ll slice. Either way, you’re asking for trouble.

To eliminate these faults
(1) swing the club on an in-to-out swing path and
(2) change the position of the clubface through impact.

Here’s what I recommend you do to rid yourself of slice and pull shots:

• Strengthen your grip
• Close your body alignment
• Close the clubface slightly
• Straighten your right arm early
• Encourage your right arm to cross over

To strengthen your grip, move both hands to the right on the club, until you can see three knuckles on the back of your left hand. The thumbs and “V”s between both thumbs and forefingers should be parallel.

You can also close the overall alignment of your body a little by aiming your feet, hips, and shoulders to the right of the target and by moving the ball back a little in your stance.
Close the clubface a little as you move the ball back, keeping it “looking” at the ball for a little longer than usual. In addition, try straightening your right arm early in the downswing.

The following visualization technique helps also. Imagine yourself standing on a clock face, with the ball in the center and 12 o’clock representing the target. If you’re a right hander, you would be facing 3 o’clock. It should feel as if the club was swinging down from 7 o’clock to 1 o’clock.

To generate the right feeling, try practicing from a side hill lie. Make sure the ball is positioned several inches above your feet. This promotes a more rounded swing plane and an in-to-out swing, which, in turn, eliminates your slice or pull.
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Question of the Week
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From Eliezer Ocampo, U.S. Navy, Naval Station, San Diego, CA

Clubhead Speed vs. Swing Tempo

Q. I finally broke 80 when I discovered your book, which has helped me a lot. How do I increase clubhead speed without compromising tempo? Thanks for your help and mentoring.

A. Thanks, Eliezer, that’s a great question. I get it all the time in my golf lessons. First, everyone has his or her own swing speed. Freddie Couples has a slower swing speed and a more languid approach to the game. Lanny Wadkins has a quicker swing speed and a faster approach to the game. The key to being a great golfer is finding a tempo that allows a player to control the club. So keep working on your tempo.

Length off the tee is another matter. Players often confuse length with muscle power. They’re not the same. Power in golf is generated by sound technique, not physical strength. Perfect your technique and you’ll drive the ball farther. Hard to believe sometimes but quite true.

In the meantime, here are two tips that will help generate extra distance. Point your left toe slightly toward the hole at address to encourage your left side to clear out of the way more easily through impact. Also, “hover” the club above the ground before starting your swing. Hovering encourages a smooth one-piece takeaway, relaxes the hands, and builds rhythm. Greg Norman, one of the finest drivers ever, used both techniques. So did Jack Nicklaus.
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If you want to truly discover the secrets of shooting like the Pros
and creating a more reliable and consistent swing, check out: http://www.HowToBreak80.com

Until next time, Go Low!

Jack

P.S. Feel free to share this newsletter with family and friends. If you would like to subscribe to this newsletter, send a blank email
to break80ezine@aweber.com
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About the Author
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Jack Moorehouse is the author of the best-selling book “How To Break 80 and Shoot Like the Pros!“. He is NOT a golf pro, rather a working man that has helped thousands of golfers from all seven continents lower their handicaps quickly. His award-winning free weekly newsletter goes out to thousands of golfers worldwide and provides the latest golf tips, strategies, techniques and instruction on how to improve your golf game.

Playing in bad weather is a challenge. Even players with low golf handicaps find it difficult to play in. Just ask those players who take my golf lessons. The weather affects everything from the way you swing to how you dress to whether or not you’ll take a cart or walk. It can be discouraging if you really enjoy playing golf.

No golf instruction session can insulate you from bad weather. But you can lessen its impact on your game if you follow these golf tips:

Playing in the rain
If you know it’s going to rain, warm up in your rain suit. Get a feel for what it’s like to hit in the suit. Rain suits are more flexible these days, but they can still be restrictive. You’ll need to keep your hands and clubs dry. Pack extra towels and gloves. Your feet will sink into the wet ground in the rain, causing you to feel cramped at address. Choke up on the club a half inch or so. When hitting, think carry not distance. The rain reduces distance, especially off the tee, so the ball will travel less in the air. If you land in the rough, the wet grass will get between your clubface and the ball when you hit, producing less backspin, which means your ball will travel farther through the air and will roll farther when it lands. Consider that when selecting clubs. On the greens, wet grass is slower. Hit your putts harder and figure on less break than usual.

Playing in the wind
The key to playing in the wind is making solid contact, something we stress in my golf lessons. Tee your ball up a little lower to drive it through the wind and focus on making solid contact. On shots off the ground, move the ball back a little in your stance, which also encourages solid contact. It’s easy to lose your balance in the wind. Widen your stance slightly for more stability. A wider stance shortens your turn, making it essential to keep good rhythm in your swing. Also, a headwind hurts distance more than a tailwind helps. Crosswinds accentuate the curve of your ball. The longer the shot, the more the crosswind moves the ball. Swing harder downwind; swing easier with more club into the wind. Remember all the principles of wind play apply to short and long shots. Wind even affects your putting. Plan for it.

Playing in the cold
Don’t start a round feeling cold. You’ll never be warm. Warm up before going out. Dress either at home or in the clubhouse. Wear long johns under your slacks and your rain pants on top of your slacks. On your upper body, wear a turtleneck and a sweater plus a wind shirt and/or a rain jacket, depending on the temperature and the wind chill factor. You can always take something off if you get too warm. A ski cap keeps your head warm. You’d be surprised how much heat is lost through your head. Do about 10 minutes of stretching before playing. Again, do whatever you have to, to keep your hands warm. If you have an option, walk the course. It’ll keep you warm. Here’s another tip from my golf lessons: The ball won’t travel as far in the cold. In fact, you lose two yards for every 10-degree decrease in temperature—more if the ball itself is cold. A cold ball feels hard around the green but performs the same.

Develop a game plan before leaving the house
Preparation is the key to beating bad weather. Check the forecast before you leave the house. Is it going to rain? In which direction is the wind blowing? What’s the temperature outside? If you know what to expect and you know the course, you can map out a game plan before leaving the house. Determine how to dress, what extra equipment to take, which clubs to leave home. Also, develop a game plan for playing the course. Nobody hits as many greens as usual in foul weather, as I’ve mentioned in my golf tips, so you’ll need to get up and down to score well. Your short game will be of primary importance in bad weather. Work on it in practices sessions.

Dress appropriately
Dress appropriately before playing. If it’s supposed to rain put on your rain gear before leaving the house or clubhouse. Buy rain pants with pockets so you can keep your hands in them and keep them dry. You may also need long underwear, hand warmers, and a hat or a ski cap. Also, pack extra clothes. And make sure you have an umbrella. If you don’t have rain pants with pockets, take ski mittens with you. Make sure they’re an extra size larger, so they’ll fit over your golf gloves. Above all, keep your hands warm. Try to stay two steps ahead of the weather.

Playing in bad weather is no picnic. Keep the golf tips we’ve discussed in mind and, adjust accordingly, especially if the cold combines with the rain and/or the wind. If the weather is too bad to play or the course closes, work on your game indoors or review some of my golf tips and wait for a better day.

Jack Moorehouse is the author of the best-selling book “How To Break 80 And Shoot Like The Pros.” He is NOT a golf pro, rather a working man that has helped thousands of golfers from all seven continents lower their handicap immediately. He has a free weekly newsletter with the latest golf tips, golf lessons and golf instruction.